Monthly Report - October 2024
Shooting Season…
October is the mixed messages month where you get the occasional summers day in dispersed with a wintry blast and everything in between. Where the Chardonnay and Marsanne are now nearly reaching the top wire, the Cabernet Franc and Shiraz are still shaking themselves from slumber. You cannot really play a big role in the vines during this part of the growing cycle, vines naturally take off post pruning and you let them do their thing until they become too overgrown (and need to be wire lifted back to the row), or shoot from the wrong spots (generally from the trunk of the vine) and you start that long walk stooping every 2 meters for a few thousand times.
One of the more pleasant jobs when the wines in barrel are excellent, is the barrel selections for the Reserve wines and the Allouran. All of the 2023 vintage was laid out in mid-October, and I had a fantastic morning going through each and every barrel completing the selections for the upcoming bottling. If you drop into my Instagram account you can see me talking through the Cabernet Franc barrels – a bit waffly but that is how it is comrades.
My thoughts on the barrel tasting? First up, the 2023 vintage was truly excellent in regards to the final wines, as good as the 2022, so there was the possibility of a follow up Deux Écus. This however was not to be the case, and it was quite simple to explain – the straight Reserve Cabernet Franc and Reserve Merlot were both exceptional, and in regard to the Cabernet Franc - truly exceptional. Where in 2021 I could not take barrels out to affect the resultant Allouran blend, in 2023 I could not take barrels out of the Reserves to make a Deux Écus – the Reserve Cabernet Franc at 100% new oak could not be altered as it was just as I hoped this wine could be.
Tools of the trade
September and October are also the months for setting out the vegetable patch, and this year with the mild temps and the top up rainfall, it is looking particularly fine. Lots of lettuces this year and not to affected by weevils, and this is also the case in the vineyard where the weevils have not been as prominent. This does make me happy as it provides a little more guarantee of a decent yield for the Merlot and Cabernet Franc which are often the most affected.
Veggie Patch going gangbusters
New Releases…
As you all would have seen drop through your inboxes, we have released the latest rendition of our Allouran and Shiraz wines. It is always a busy time with releases and often we do this task in May post vintage so as to let the vineyard rest so we can knuckle down to all the deliveries and other paraphernalia of promoting the wines.
New releases - 2021 Allouran and 2022 Shiraz
Both wines were taken up well by the Mailing List and we are now starting the rounds of retailer emails (note that the discount code is still valid for another few weeks - email us if you need the code resent). Just to ensure all was well, we did post out the wines to Gary “Withnail” Walsh at the wine reviewing website WineFront which is an excellent resource for any wine lover and buyer in Australia.
Blue Poles 2021 Allouran: “It’s perhaps not the most well-regarded vintage in Margaret River, though I’ve really liked many of the wines from 2021. There’s a certain restraint and finesse about them, where vinous character trumps some of the more ebullient fruit vintages. I’m hoping this introduction makes me seem kind of intelligent, though that’s something of a big ask. Mark Gifford sent a 2016 in with this wine, because he said it was the most similar in style. Well, the vines are older now, and I reckon this is better, and shows an evolution in style, with quality of tannin in this 2021 being something of a highlight. I don’t know much about the wine, the cépage, or the oak treatment, though I do believe no ‘reserve’ wines were made this year, so this contains the whole shootin’ match.
It’s a more quiet expression of Allouran, pencils and subtle earthiness, tobacco and perfume, blue and black fruit, some light spicy and nutty oak in play, a little mint, menthol and green herb. It’s medium-bodied, savoury but with brightness and energy, tannin has something of a graphite grip, and the wine feels very composed and comfortable in its skin, and finishes long, red-fruited, cocoa-dusted and fresh. Sophisticated. Claret-like. You can buy this with confidence, and just quietly, I reckon it’s one of the better and more interesting vintages of this wine.” 94 points, GW WineFront Oct 2024 – Best Value – Tip Top Tipple
Blue Poles 2022 Shiraz: “Mark Gifford, I feel, is no great fan of wine critics. I sympathise, and kind of agree. Most of them are rubbish, present company excepted.
There’s arguably a bit too much sweet nougat and banana skin oak here, ripe raspberry, quite juicy, cracked pepper and pimento spice, black olives rolled in dried herbs. Medium-bodied, grilled meat with paprika, frisky acidity, quite some chew to the open-weave chamois grainy tannin, with a bright and blue fruited finish of good length. It’s maybe a little raw as at now, though I feel it will improve. The stuffing is there.” 91+ points, GW WineFront Nov 2024
Just recently there has been a bit of chatter about the 2018 Shiraz on the WineFront website and I will just highlight this comment made by a particularly astute subscriber called Louis.
“Wow, now this was a revelation. This bottle absolutely stellar. Never was very much enamoured with MR Shiraz (not that I had many) but this left me speechless. One of the best Shiraz I ever had and not sure I would have picked as Shiraz in a blind tasting. Such great structure, so much mouthfeel, black fruit, but not fruity, jammy or sweet. So different to many SA Shiraz. Yes, definitely can feel the Italianate, herbal and savoury side of this wine. I’m ecstatic … and shattered … my only bottle :-(. Need to console myself with a bottle of the Teroldego :-). Or try one of the 2019 BP Shiraz bottles.”
Highlights my own – as I thought golly that is pretty amazing.
Comrades, for whatever reason the wines we make at Blue Poles can age, and age really really well. I have no idea why this would be the case apart from the normal descriptors of low yields, minimal intervention wine making, dry grown etc – it just seems to be the case with all of our wines. So have the confidence to stack away some bottles for a rainy day and drink any at the moment if you feel the mood – they are delicious and not just precious.
St-Emilion (Part 1)…
This topic has been a long time coming. I have been thinking about how I could best discuss this special part of the world without sounding like a fanboy of the rich and famous, or making it a dry old read in which I make you all think – what a dreaded bore.
It all starts way, way back in 2010 when I completed a vintage in Bordeaux, where I worked predominantly in a vineyard near the town of Branne – right next to Saint-Émilion – and I regularly road my pushbike around the area, as well as worked in some wineries on occasion in both Saint-Émilion and Pomerol for a few days each.
Contrary to popular belief, I did not fall in love with the place and continue to visit and revisit as that 2010 vintage became a onetime event – the reason is simply that I did not get a deep sense of connection as I do at home. The lack of big skies, the lack of quiet and humbleness (for a word), and not seeing my vines set into a landscape that is part of me now has meant I have never yearned to return. My studies of the geology and climate of Saint-Émilion and Pomerol completed prior to purchasing our estate was done in the late 1990’s, so that also is a distant memory, so why am I returning now to write some homage to the place? Because our Allouran is starting to become so close a mimic to good Saint-Émilion that I am now looking over my shoulder and thinking “How has this actually come to be?” – and a refresher on the town and region of Saint-Émilion is due.
But let us go through this systematically – in this first part of two we will hopefully find out how this little satellite village of Bordeaux came to be, take a dive into the crazy world of the Jurade and its pomp and ceremony, gasp at the madness of the Classification of the wineries, and lastly step back and simply admire the pure “Gaul” which is Saint-Émilion. Next month to complete, I will dip into the geology and climate of the area which includes Pomerol to provide the vinous connection of the wines to the location.
A fort, a hermit, so many miracles…
The location of Saint-Émilion is one at the peak of a ridge line that overlooks the Dordogne river valley. Romans (as they did almost everywhere they went) set up the town as a fort, planted some vines during the 2nd Century, and in the 4th Century a poet called Ausonius raved about the wines from those vines. The town (fort) was then named Ascumbas due to Auonius’s “dropped verse”. The Roman Empire did its thing and eventually fell apart, but the town remained.
The next big change up occurred with the arrival of a hermit Émilion, a baker by trade that had committed a few early miracles (changing loaves of bread into wood to avoid detection when feeding the poor, taking burning loaves out of an oven, sans mitts, and remaining unburnt), and was in effect chased out of a series of towns by jealous monks. After a bit of wandering, he settled in Ascumbas and chose (dug?) a large limestone cave as his hermitage. This sacred sanctuary was located just beneath the town’s Market Square, adjacent to the Trinity Chapel, and not far from the catacombs.
Émilion passed away on 16 January, 787, but his impact on the community and surrounds was large. Devotees of his works continued his mission, with the church coming on board post his passing, culminating in the construction of the Monolithic Church in the 12th Century directly over the sacred sanctuary. The church is carved and built entirely from the same limestone that once formed Émilion’s hermitage, and has the grotto preserved at its base.
Side view of the Monolithic Church with the access open to the underground sanctuary
Today, the water flowing from Saint Émilion’s sanctuary cave is not just to quench your thirst. It has alleged healing properties, with credit for restoring sight to a blind person, thus the spring is believed to treat eye conditions, especially conjunctivitis. Added on top of this is that a couple throwing two intersecting pins into the basin found at the base of the spring will marry within the year and enjoy lasting happiness – but it gets better.
The hermit’s seat in the cave is adorned with fertility symbols, and there are “countless” testimonials of miraculous pregnancies by sitting in the seat (none more well known than Eleanor of Aquitaine who is rumoured to have sat there before giving birth to Richard the Lionheart and the dastardly King John). Holy macaroons (which are a famous Saint Émilion almond flour baked treat no less) is all I can say…
Sanctuary Cave and Spring
Obviously lots of monks for a big church and worship of the Saint meant the planting of more vines, and the surrounds of the town are covered with them as there was a demand for the quality wine the town produced from near and far. A growing town, a royal pedigree, a saint, and a top military location meant that more and more interest was taken to this tiny outpost, and this interest culminated in the formation of a strange group of 140 red-robed dudes called the Jurade, set in place by King John in all accounts as a way to manage the locals and the area.
The weird and wonderful Jurade…
While Aquitaine was under English dominion for a 300-year period, King John Lackland of England (brother to the legendary Richard the Lionheart) signed the Falaise Charter. This landmark document signed on 8 July, 1199, empowered the citizens of Saint-Émilion to self-govern, exercise regulatory control, and manage the administrative affairs of their own town (while pledging support to the good King). This ultimately granted the Jurade of Saint- Émilion unprecedented influence over their community, particularly in matters related to their prized wine production.
Because the wine trade was vital to the town of Saint-Émilion, the Jurade oversaw the production of “fine” wines, kept the branding irons that labelled every barrel (to limit forgery and abuses), and destroyed any wine that was deemed unworthy of the Saint-Émilion label. Considered a crucial task as wine from Saint-Émilion had gained some global renown, the requiring of strict quality controls to uphold its prestige was promoted, which by default also maintained its value.
Disbanded during the French Revolution (as all members were basically the local lords and bourgeoise), it reformed in 1948 with the current Jurade playing a role as a promotional organization for the region’s winemakers rather than a regulatory body; that would be the INAO (Institut national de l’origine et de la qualité). Though its regulatory powers have diminished, the Jurade’s role in promotion and advocacy is considered by themselves as being “crucial” for maintaining Saint-Émilion’s status on the world wine map.
They do run some major events in the town with the largest being the announcement of the “Jugement du Vin Nouveau” on the third Sunday in June and the “Ban des Vendanges” (the start of the harvesting) on the third Sunday in September (which now is a couple of weeks too late). They organize tastings and induction ceremonies worldwide for the greater glory and prosperity of the excellent wines of Saint-Émilion, which by chance means members get flown around the world to attend these events.
There are about 3,000 or so members of the Jurade and they included notables such as Prince Albert II of Monaco, Chef Philippe Etchebest, and even Jackie Chan. Worldwide offices of the Jurade are developed upon the acceptance of a new global member. The current list of “remote Jurat” is quite eclectic with London, Singapore, Shanghai being expected, but Abidjan and Trondheim less so (with no American office which seems out of place) – and they are maintained by the Jurat who lives in the various locations.
The Jurats are thoroughly vetted via a long, arduous process sometimes involving multiple months and plenty of information (and Euros?), submitted by the applicants. Many members are the winemakers of nearby chateaux in the Saint-Émilion appellation. Others are wine merchants or involved with wine in other ways. Yet, they all have this in common: they have applied, been accepted by, voted for (psephology be damned, this is a secret organization), and then inducted into the Jurade during a ceremony that is only carried out biannually. And, once accepted, that red coat must feel pretty fine!
It is however a relic.
It is also on the surface just a rich man’s “dress up” – a cosplay for baby boomers, but they appear to have a mighty time. The feasts are legendary with several hundred members and invitees served in a massive venue across from the Hotel de Ville called La Salle des Dominicains. A meal that lasts all afternoon is accompanied by twelve different bottles of Saint-Émilion wine which are paired with the numerous dishes. You have musicians performing and numerous speakers until all the food and wine has been consumed. Finally, the attendees head out of the venue to view leading Jurats climbing to the top of La Tour du Roy (King’s Tower), a 13th-century keep, to declare le ban des vendanges lifted: let the harvest commence they belch.
Crumbling Classification…
When I first discovered Bordeaux wines I became fascinated by the lists of Chateaux within the regions. There is the 1855 list of the Grand Crus of the Medoc and Sauternes, there is the list of the Cru Classés in Graves, Cru Bourgeois of the broader Medoc and last but not least, the Grand Cru Classé list from Saint-Émilion. It seemed very neat and tidy – you like wines of a certain style (silky cabernet for example), head to Margaux and the lists will tell you the best to less-best in a nice package. I printed them out – collected wines and even ticked them off the lists as purchases were made or wines were consumed.
Now for most of these lists, the position the various Chateaux hold are relatively fixed in stone. The most famous 1855 classification of the Medoc has had only one alteration with the lifting of Ch. Mouton Rothschild from 2nd Growth to 1st Growth in 1973. Sauternes and Graves are as they were, Cru Bourgeois just gets added to – but the Saint-Émilion list is a dumpster fire of dissent and intrigue. The reason for the Saint-Émilion drama? Quite simply they have a system that requires updating every 6-10 years and as they have three categories, and those that are highlighted for demotion simply have a meltdown.
The three categories in the Saint-Émilion classification are Premier Grand Cru Classé A, Premier Grand Cru Classé B, and Grand Cru Classé – historically there has only ever been 2 Premier Grand Cru Classé A Chateaux – Cheval Blanc and Ausone. But in 2012 Ch. Angélus and Ch. Pavie made the jump from the B’s to the A’s, and in 2022 Ch. Figeac made the jump as well. But the controversy is in the fact that an independent board of the INAO tastes the wines submitted and then reports back to all the estates and many do not like what they read. They simply lose it.
In the 2022 round of classifications, it all simply fell apart. Châteaux Cheval Blanc and Ausone announced their withdrawal on the last day for submitting the applications, followed by Château Angélus in September 2021. More recently, in June 2022, Château la Gaffelière withdrew, citing concerns over the tasting notes that they were given during the application process, at the moment when they were invited to meet with the commission to discuss application process. Finally, Château Croque Michotte (already selected for demotion in 2006 and 2012, and behind several lawsuits since) announced in June 2022 also that it no longer wished to be considered, again after receiving feedback that the tasting notes it had received were not reflective of their belief in the wine’s quality. Owner Pierre Carle specifically said, “I will not go to the commission to argue with people who don’t know what they are talking about. Either we are classified, or it’s war”.
Château Croque Michotte looking picture perfect approaching vintage
It is a mess. With 85 vineyards now classed as Grand Cru (from 114 applications received), it still provides a summary of quality estates, as there is a solid basis behind the granting of a classification – but with many Châteaux now withdrawing from the process, and the legal actions taken by some, you are not to know if the wines of the Classification are a true representation of the best of the region. The system will however survive, regardless of the wounds it has suffered by not having the best Châteaux of Saint-Émilion listed.
Oh, the Gaul…
I love the wines of Saint-Émilion. They range from dark to light, tannic to mellow, fragrant to dense – but almost all have a feeling of “completeness” for a word that can only be gained by the blending of rich Merlot and aromatic Cabernet. Our Allouran mimics these wines more so on the palate than the nose – almost all “Bordeaux” has that distinctive old wooden cabinet note that I have never seen in a new world wine (unless it was pretty dire to drink!) – and this has come about not through following the rules and regulations of the region, but rather the soul of the vines.
Walking and biking around the town of Saint-Émilion and surrounds is great. But the locals are hardened to tourists that arrive in busloads each and every day – they would rather they could just get on with their vines and wines without the clutter of thousands of vehicles each day clogging up the roads. With the picture postcard setting also comes eye watering prices for land in the region – to purchase an estate may now be in the billions for the most famous (if they were ever to be sold), and tens of millions for just a small unclassified Chateaux.
If you were to visit, try to stay nearby and drop in during the evening when the tourists evaporate. Bars and restaurants become frequented by locals, those who work on the Chateaux and not the owners per se, and it is much more relaxing. It will also ensure that your halting French will be sneered at and your pleas for service ignored … ahhh, you have got to love the French.
Nervous warmth...
I have to admit to a bit of PTSD when it comes to each warm sunny day that comes along this spring after the vintage of 2024. After that crazy heat load of the past vintage, I feel a great sense of relief whenever there was a drop of rain outside, or the wind was from the south taking the heat out of the ground. The budburst went through quite easily in September and shoots are reaching for the sky at a more controlled rate as we have had no major heat events as yet, as well as having an average rainfall for the month. All seems well.
The numbers for this month and last year’s figures are provided below:
October 2024:
Avg Maximum Temp 20.5°C
Daily Max recorded 28.4°C
Avg Minimum Temp 9.1°C
Daily Min recorded 4.3°C
Rainfall: 56.8mm
The average maximum and minimum temperature averages for October were lower in comparison to the values in 2023. Rainfall total is higher than in 2023 keeping the topsoil a bit cooler as we enter the warming months.
October 2023:
Avg Maximum Temp 22.6°C
Daily Max recorded 30.5°C
Avg Minimum Temp 9.3°C
Daily Min recorded .5°C
Rainfall: 24.6mm
Flowering and wires…
November is a weird month to be managing your vineyard, as on one hand it is hands off as you are pretty much just hoping the flowering goes through without a hitch (warm temperatures and still days), and on the other you need to run around trapping the growth of the vines to the row through lifting wires as well as cleaning out excess growth from the base of the plant to ensure energy is expended in all the right locations. Lots of steps on the Apple Watch, and a few nervous nibbles of the cuticles as weather systems come and go. But the weather this time of year can be stunning, so a few walks down the local beaches are also on the cards.
As always if you have any queries about what has been written or about wine in general, do not hesitate to contact us either by email, Instagram or Twitter and we will do our very best to answer any question.
Cheers
Mark Gifford
Blue Poles Vineyard